OffRoad Redemption


By Susan Weaver |

Full of first-day excitement, we stood – 10 cyclists and two guides – atop a high plateau called Island in the Sky. Thanks to the clear October weather, we could see for nearly a hundred miles: mountains in the distance, and in between, a strange landscape carved by time, wind and water. A sandy road, created by uranium prospectors in the 1950s, snaked down the cliff’s edge into a land of buttes and mesas, spires and sinuous canyons.

After a caution from our guides – “easy on those switchbacks!” – I took a deep breath and pedaled off. I felt the rush of descent, the sand blessedly firm under my knobby tires, as I embarked on my first mountain-bike tour ever.

Soon we had swooped down 1,200 feet and were wheeling along the White Rim Trail in spectacular Canyonlands National Park in southeastern Utah. Above us stood the reddish, crinkled sandstone edges of the mesa, and behind us, all the trappings and responsibilities of civilization.

For five days we would not see paved roads, much less beds or running water (except for the rivers far below). Virtually the only motor vehicle we’d encounter was the 4-wheel-drive support truck provided by our host, Nichols Expeditions of Moab, Utah. The truck, our chief luxury on this trip, carried our camping gear, drinking water, food, rain tarps, bike parts, tools and a guitar belonging to Jeff, our guide.

Getting Past Pavement

The surreal and varied landscape of Canyonlands makes it the perfect getaway. This 337,598-acre park boasts more miles of unpaved road and backcountry trail open to mountain bikes than just about any other national park. Because of its lack of water, Canyonlands is not especially hiker-friendly, but a supported off-road bike tour is the perfect way to experience it. I didn’t miss carrying my own gear, and I thoroughly enjoyed cycling past surreal rock formations, tenting under the stars and watching sunrises turn the cliffs from gray to pale pink and apricot, and then to flaming orange and vermillion.

Friendly from the outset, the group of six women and four men on my tour ranged from 30 to 50-something. They spanned the gamut of experience – from skilled mountain bikers to one adventurous marathon runner with no off-road cycling history. After a couple of seasons of trail-riding at home, I was somewhere in the middle. We rode at our own pace on a fairly flat route with a few short, technically challenging climbs and descents that could be walked when the going got tough. It was a perfect tour for our mix of abilities.

Off-Road Offerings

Considering the wide range of mountain-bike or off-road tours available through bike-tour organizers, my five-day itinerary was neither the most arduous of knobby-tire expeditions nor the easiest or most luxurious. But, like all off-road bicycling trips, the route we cycled – 85 miles on an unpaved road that crossed packed and loose sand, slick rock and some loose rock and gravel – is not to be undertaken on a skinny-tired road bike.

A mountain bike’s fat, knobby tires and suspension are essential for providing adequate control in difficult conditions and some cushion on rough roads. Many tour companies give you the option of using supplied bikes or bringing your own.

You can sign up for a mountain-bike tour on almost any continent in the world. You’ll find tours that take you into the wilderness and others that travel almost entirely through towns or cities but that require mountain bikes (or sometimes hybrid or cross-bikes) for less than perfect roads.

You can rough it – or not. Some tours involve primitive camping without running water; other camping tours will stop over at accommodations with showers and flush toilets. If you want a few more amenities, some companies feature first-class inns, elegant B&Bs and gourmet meals, while others offer more basic but still comfortable lodgings.

The Flat and the Steep

At the less rigorous end of the spectrum, for example, is an off-road tour run by Timberline in Missouri’s Katy Trail State Park, with motel, inn and bed-and-breakfast lodgings. The six-day, van-supported tour travels the full 227 miles of the nation’s longest operating rail trail, built mostly on the beds of abandoned railroad tracks. The Katy Trail more or less follows the Missouri River across the state to the Mississippi River. The tour ends in St. Charles, a river town that was the launching point 200 years ago for the historic Lewis and Clark expedition.

Since the route is a former railroad bed, the crushed limestone trail is almost flat. “We used only two gears the whole time,” says Claire Goldstein, from Douglastown, N.Y. Goldstein and her husband had done a lot of cycle touring but were delighted by their first off-road tour. “You didn’t have to watch for traffic,” says Goldstein. “You just chugged along and enjoyed the scenery at your own pace.”

At the other extreme of mountain-bike touring is Adventure Cycling Association’s Great Divide Tour, an experience that two guides who’ve led it call “life-changing.” The 75-day expedition from Canada to Mexico crosses the Continental Divide more than two dozen times with a total elevation gain of about 200,000 vertical feet. At 2,490 miles, it’s the longest mountain-bike route in the world.

Participants camp, help cook the group meals and lug their own gear up challenging climbs on mostly dirt roads. “It’s tough,” says Brian Martindale, tours director for Adventure Cycling. He’s seen seasoned bike racers blow out their knees and have to drop out because they couldn’t get used to switching to a lower gear for hauling their load of camping gear up the climbs. Good news: Adventure Cycling also offers supported tours that cover just parts of the trail.

Going On Tour

While experienced cyclists may choose to plan and outfit their own tours, a guided commercial tour offers many benefits, especially if you’re new to mountain biking. And if you are traveling solo, as I did on my tour, it’s nice to have a ready-made group to share the fun. Seasoned riders, too, are often happy to leave the planning to a tour company.

A Good Tour Company Should Offer the Following Services:

  1. EXPERTISE ABOUT THE AREA. Guides should be able to answer questions about the landscape, history, weather and wildlife.If you can’t find a company that meets your needs, ask a local outfitter for recommendations or do some digging online. With luck, you’ll find the trip you’re looking for at a price you can afford.

– Nichols Expeditions of Moab, Utah (800-648-8488 or ); Kaibab Tours (800-451-1133 or ); Rim Tours (800-626-7335 or ); and Western Spirit Cycling (800-845-2453 or ). – for more information on their Katy Trail tour (Sept. 26–Oct. 1, 2004), contact Timberline (800-417-2453 or ). – the park’s Web site lists many campgrounds, inns and other services along the trail: . – reach them at 800-755-2453 or . Click on the Cyclists’ Yellow Pages link for profiles and Web links to 154 operators of supported mountain-bike/off-road tours worldwide.

Even with a good fitness base, you’ll need some prep to cycle off-road for hours each day. Compared to road riding, the changing surfaces of dirt roads or trails take more upper-body strength (to handle the bike) and more leg strength (to pedal up steep hills and over obstacles). Build your endurance with cardiovascular training. Training is specific. As tour guide Chuck Nichols points out, “You need to be able to ride for a few hours at a time without dying, and to get your butt ready to sit on a bike for that long, too.” You don’t want to fumble, mis-shift or squeeze the wrong brake lever on a steep or tricky trail portion. Practice on a familiar trail. Level the pedals and stand on them with knees bent, so that your legs, not your butt, absorb any jarring. Shift your weight back, thighs lightly gripping the wide, rear sides of the saddle. In this position, you’re ready for just about anything. Use it to coast over rough surfaces where you might hit something if you had a pedal down. Use it when descending to move your center of gravity back and to keep your weight over the rear wheel. Visit a local bike shop to learn about group trail rides. Find some patient, experienced mountain bikers who are happy to give you pointers – without pushing you into more technical trails than you can handle. On a tour, ride more conservatively than you would at home. Most folks, notes Nichols, train by riding their favorite trail and become familiar with it in varying conditions. It naturally gets easier over time. On tour, though, the trail is new to you. Unfamiliar surface conditions may increase the difficulty. Take it easy, advises Nichols. “On tour, the name of the game is to be able to get up and do it again the next day, and the next …”

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